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September 12, 2023 by

This was one of my first posts as a blogger/artist. Published in June 2015, it is an account of a week long trip to northern parts of Morocco.

Added thoughts September 2023.

The catastrophic effects of the earthquake are simply unimaginable.  In 2014, we travelled through the Atlas Mountains south of Marrakesh on narrow roads that pass through small villages where time seems to stand still. I know how fragile the infrastructure could be in that area.

May survivors and relatives of lost loved ones find courage and strength in their faith and in one another during this time of tragedy and uncertainty.

To visit Morocco is still like turning pages of some illuminated Persian manuscript all embroidered with bright shapes and subtle lines. ~ Edith Wharton

Mya danceThe other night I attended my granddaughter's dance recital. She was in several numbers, but her colourful veil dance set to the beat of the oud and the riq, instruments of Middle Eastern music, was most enticing, and it brought to mind a week I spent in Morocco last year.

Of all the places I have visited, Morocco leaves an indelible imprint for its unusual contrasts and its exotic experiences.

We traveled from very cosmopolitan cities such as Rabat, and seaside Casablanca, to unforgettable Marrakesh where we visited the Koutoubia Mosque, and the Saadian Tombs, and experienced the bustling night life during an hour-long caleche ride through city streets.

In Marrakesh or the red city, the contrasts are most jarring: the snake charmers are found not far from the exclusive chichi boutiques and high-end hotels.

Morocco
Morocco

Harrowing trip in the Atlas Mountains.

Our next destination, Ouarzazate, is located south of the mountain range. It is the home of two immense movie studios and location of films such as Gladiator, The Mummy, and Prince of Persia.

To get there, we must drive through the high Atlas Mountains (yikes!) and we are advised to take a motion sickness pill before our climb begins.

Our guide, Rachid, isn’t kidding.

In one 30 km section of the road, there are no less than 99 hairpin bends if we care to count.

After travelling 30 minutes on this twisting road going up the mountain range, passengers who are nauseous have moved to the back of the bus. I am gripping the edge of my seat listening to ooohing and ahhhing at the deep gorges that appear on one side or the other, or even on both sides of the road.

I, on the other hand, am hoping the brakes on the bus hold out. I am counting the minutes until we are done with these mountains. This portion of the trip reminds me a bit of Santorini or Capri except that we are surrounded by valleys and other mountains rather than a view of the sea.

fossils

Travelling back in time...

High up in the mountains we feel the cool refreshing air on our skin. And then we see snowploughs stored away for the summer.

Snowploughs in Morocco? Whaaat? Our guide reminds us of our altitude.

In this rather barren area, people survive by selling fossils and beautiful rocks with minerals and semi precious stones.

From Ouarzazate to Erfoud, castles or kasbahs appear here and there, towering over mostly adobe houses.

A little lower, closer to the valleys, there are walnut and apple trees, olive groves, dates, fig, juniper, pistachio, cedar, pine trees and fields of roses. We see few animals other than sheep that are fed alfalfa.

Families do not have enough land here to feed livestock.

Cooperatives flourish in the Atlas Mountains.

This is a region of cooperatives. The women in the argon oil cooperatives have been lifted out of poverty by successfully selling their oil to the beauty industry, and this special locally grown and cultivated oil is touted as beneficial for all types of ailments.

Below, photo of boys selling rose petals from nearby rose fields where we saw women hand picking the petals. The scent of the roses in this area was intoxicating. On the right, a partial view of the rose fields. And below, a man selling fresh dates by the roadside. Further below, oasis and desert.

Morocco

A sand storm adds to the excitement of a trip to the desert.

In Erfoud, an oasis town known as the "Gate of the Sahara Desert", the sky is dark and menacing.

There is talk of an approaching storm.

Our group is split up and our local guides will drive us in their modern Jeeps to Erg Chebbi, the desert sand dunes of the northern reaches of the Sahara, 45 minutes or so from our hotel.

But first, we stop very briefly in the small town where our guides secure our scarves around our heads. This should have been a clue as to the kind of outing this was going to be.

On this particularly grey, overcast day, the desert is an eerie place.

It is as though a big bowl has been placed over the entire area from which nothing can escape, and where all sounds are muffled.

To the uninitiated like us, there are no visible signposts to guide us to our destination. In the distance we see dromedaries and an occasional stone hut.

By the time we reach the big Berber tent in the midst of this vastness, a sand storm is working itself into a fury.

There is no escaping the grit.

It is in our hair, our ears, our eyes, and even in our mouths. I feel like every drop of moisture has been sucked out of my skin.

Our scarves wrapped tightly around our heads by our thoughtful guides offer minimal protection. No matter. For someone who is used to Canadian blizzards, this is quite exciting. However, there are no howling sounds in the desert, only silence. This surprises me most of all.

The hushed atmosphere is almost one of reverence as provided in a church. Desert dwellers seek cover in their homes. Only tourists are crazy enough to be outside on this day.

We seek shelter in the tent staying out of the storm for about an hour while some in our group venture further into the desert on dromedaries and more sand blasting (great natural skin cleanser).

By the time we are all ready to return to our hotel, night has fallen.

Again, our amazing driver navigates very confidently in the dark, over the dunes and around the rocks, and we reach the well-lit paved road within an hour.

What a thrill this whole experience has been!

Morocco is unforgettable for many reasons.

Morocco is a land of breathtaking open spaces, of deserts, canyons and caves and gorges.

It is a window to the past with its kasbahs, and medieval walls.

But Morocco is also a chaotic labyrinth of crowded souks and leather tanneries where the sights and smells overwhelm the North American sensitivities.

Then again, it is a land of olive groves as far as the eye can see, of strawberry fields, of vast arable lands, of pristine beaches and fields of sweet smelling roses.

It is a place of friendly family meetings in town squares and sidewalk cafes where everyone is welcomed with sweet tea and honey-coated desserts.

In Morocco, you will never be bored.

(Other memorable trips include Chihuly Garden and Glass Exhibit in Seattle, WA., Grounds for Sculpture in Hamilton, NJ., Spain, Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens,  Cuba, Maui and so many more places…)

10 Responses

  • Started to read your blog. And here I am reading this as part of a trip you took. I took this trip to Morocco and I have to tell you I did not enjoy it. It is one of the only trips that I took that I did not enjoy. I found it barren, scary. I went quite awhile ago but to this day I would not go back. I love the way you explained everything. I relieved my trip which I call “mon voyage d’horreure.” We were to stay 1 full week and after only 3 days we decided to move on the Spain to which I fell in love with. Good read though Louise…..

    • Hello Anne Marie:

      I think Morocco is such a change from anything that I had ever experienced especially the desert storm that I shall never forget that part of the trip and relive that part of the trip with some fondness. However, there were some aspects I did not appreciate – I was very sick most probably from the food even though I was extremely careful, I was frightened in the high Atlas Mountains on all the hairpin turns, and I was most discouraged at seeing all the pollution in the form of plastic bags in the desert for as far as the eye could see and on and on for miles and miles. I doubt I would return but I still found this exotic country very beautiful and welcoming. Thank you for leaving a comment!

  • What a wonderful Journey, Morocco has never been on my list of places to visit, but you certainly make it sound like a place worth travelling to. Loved the photos and also your art work. Keep these coming Louise.

  • Beautiful pictures, paintings and story. Very interesting. Makes me want to go and visit.

    • I would go back to certain places like Marrakesh and stay a week. But I would prefer to go back with people who know the place well. I guess that means I will never be going back! I remember Marrakesh as being a place where hippies gathered in the 70s. I was very curious to see it. It is by far, the most beautiful city in Morocco.

  • PS tu es une archiviste exceptionnelle et une bonne commentatrice ( en plus d’être artiste accomplie en dessin et en photo !!). Tu nous fais voyager avec toi. J’ai un bon aperçu du Maroc grâce à toi, je trouve cela magnifique.
    Merci

    • L’idée du blogue vient d’une amie suite aux courriels que j’envoyais pendant le voyage.

  • Ah, Louise, quel beau voyage !! tellement exotique ! Je vous trouve hardis et bien courageux d’avoir visité des coins où le cœur a de la misère à suivre !! Et des déserts où on ne s’aventure pas sans guide !! Merci pour les magnifiques photos et dessins ( la texture du vêtement de la dame en bleu m’impressionne beaucoup ). Amitiés et admiration,
    Marie

    • Le vêtement de la dame c’est de la peinture acrylique avec du tissu papier (tissue paper)du genre pour les cadeaux collé par dessus l’acrylique. Une expérience.

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